Whipsy. Autumn.

This isn't my usual post. My posts are usually upbeat and celebrating all the positives about Cornwall; the ocean, health, well-being, and all the good things that come with this life here in this beautiful place I am lucky enough to call home! I have been struggling mentally, emotionally and physically the last few months, for a number of reasons.

It wasn't until this night, after having been in the water, that I felt I could write about it. After countless nights of not being able to sleep until 2am/3am in the morning, and even then, consistently waking up throughout the night; I felt I could finally put something down. 

It is not the most profound, nor deep or compelling; so my apologies if this doesn't quite float your boat. But writing this had an incredibly therapeutic effect on me that made me feel a little lighter in my thoughts, and allowed me to breathe that little bit deeper, a little less sharp. It isn't a post of enlightenment or of some sort of awakening, it's just something I had to put down on paper. 



The sun hadn’t yet set behind the clouds, but there was barely any sunlight visible anyway. The heavy, grey clouds lay like a thick blanket. Hurricane Ophelia encroached ever closer, bringing with her a warmth uncommon in Cornwall this late in the autumn.

Long Weekends On The Cornish Coast. Part II. Porthcurno. Porthchapel. Logan's Rock.

The following morning, we woke bright and early to the rumbling of a farmer parking his pickup behind the van, ready to deliver his free roaming cattle with fresh supplies for the morning. I opened the van's doors to be welcomed by a view of vast, green fields laden with fresh morning dew. I filled my lungs with the scent of crisp ocean air spilling through the open doors. 


Late Spring Evenings

The bank holiday weekend just gone, treated us to a couple of days of sunshine and swell, after an arduous month of a millpond ocean.



Long Weekends On The Cornish Coast. Part I. Kynance Cove.

The long Easter weekend and May Bank Holiday weekend have provided me with more than the normal two days to get out the office and go explore more of the Cornish coast I don't normally get out to visit...

A Special Day On The North Coast

A few weekends back we were treated to a lovely few days of swell here on the North coast...

Chilly Nips & New Year Dips

There's not much to say about this day... Apart from the fact that it was a particularly freezing New Year's Day.


We were all a tad hungover. I think we may have all lost the plot a little. The wind was the strongest, iciest wind that had ever blown on these Northern shores (probably not, but it bleddy felt like it!) 

So we 5 idiots (4 idiots actually; Hayley was wise and remained fully clothed behind the camera capturing these shots on film) thought it would be a great idea to change into our wetsuits, don the bellyboards, and waddle down the slipperiest of mud-soaked slopes to the beach and nearly drown ourselves on the coldest day of the year (admittedly it was the first day of the year...)

A Crisp Cornish Winter

Let's face it, surfing in the British winter (pretty much the whole of the Northern Hemisphere's winter) can be a bit much at times...
But then again, when it looks like this...

Dreamy Summer Days at Watergate Bay

As you will have seen from some of my previous posts, Clare and I upped the levels of stoke this summer. Despite working long hours during the peak season down here in Cornwall, we always managed to find the time to get in the ocean. We've had our fair share of early rises before a long ass shift or a quick power surf post-work catching the last of the day's waves before the sunset, all to wipe away the stresses of the day in an attempt to make us feel human again!

Early Morning In St Ives

These photos were taken the morning after the St Ives Biathlon. We woke early, a little too early actually… 5:30am to be precise. All to escape a fine from camping in the car park overnight. Unsure where to go or where would even be open at this time in the morning we parked up at Porthminster and stumbled down to the beach. Feeling a little scraggly from the free pint of rattler given to all competitors who successfully completed the Biathlon the night before, we stumbled onto the beach for the sunrise.


Barbados

This post has been a few months in the making, solely due to the fact that I lost all of my photos from Barbados, but then successfully managed to scavenge a few of them from deep within the hard drive, only for it to happen again and again. Until finally, I managed to upload them on this 'ere blog before they disappeared forever!

Party Waves

After our photo-surf session we felt we really needed to get a few shots of our next surf doing its thing in the sunshine. We wanted shots to show Cornwall does get beautiful, fun days of waves in the sunshine, to prove we’re not always surfing in the mizzle and drizzle of Cornwall’s mighty rainclouds! 
Courtesy of Clare James Photography.

Two Surfs A Day, Keeps The Doctor Away

We’ve been having a pretty fun time here in Cornwall this summer. Despite the gloomy first few weeks of August, we’ve managed to fit in some memorable surfs on some of our favourite beaches. Clare and I managed to time a few of our days off together so we could explore and embark on a few more of our surfing safaris we love so much. However, this time we decided we are going to document it, not just on land, but in the water too...


The Beginning Of A Van Life


So... We've been working on a little (GERT) project since the beginning of this year. We decided to take the plunge and invest in something that is going to bring us endless amounts of adventure, fun and frolics. 

In December, we bought a long wheel based Peugeot Boxer from a dodgy dealer (wouldn't recommend Scorrier Vehicle Sales to anyone!) to turn the beast into a super suave campervan to fulfil all our hopes and dreams of what a camping trip could be like, with more living space and room to move.

June

June has been a culmination of small, clean, super fun swells and stormy, blown out crumbly days. 

Chill At The Mill


A weekend full of incredible food, all the drinks, amazing music, sunshine, adventures in the woods, glitter, hula hooping and some pretty dodgy dancing! 

Two Days Of Gold

Somehow I managed to time my days off perfectly to coincide with the arrival of the new swell!

As promised by the wave gods, the clean, offshore waves predicted were finally, and very kindly delivered to our doorstep. Those days spent surfing the mush in optimistic preparation of surfing a proper slice of swell well and truly paid off. What can I say...  heading in whatever the weather, whatever the wave was damn good advice!



Whatever The Weather, Whatever The Wave...

"IF IN DOUBT... PADDLE OUT!"

This article may be a bit kooky, but I was  hoping it might inspire some other learners to get out there no matter what! I was chatting to Clare in the car on our way back from a cold and windy surf at Fistral, about how much better it is to get out for a surf even when the conditions are not ideal, than to just sit at home, watching the webcam praying to the wave gods in the hope that it might get better! That shit is just boring... and it'll most likely drive you a little insane!

We starting talking about all the benefits of surfing in all sorts of conditions and it got me inspired to get out there even more, quit moaning about the mush and just go SURF! So I decided to write a little KOOKY post about why you should get out there WHATEVER THE WEATHER, WHATEVER THE WAVE... I hope you find it inspires you to get out there whenever you can, the benefits are endless...

Hmmm... Is it worth it?

Birthday BBQ

This weekend the fog finally lifted and the sunshine finally graced the shores of Cornwall for a scorcher of a weekend, and how did we celebrate? With the only way we know how to celebrate the sun returning to us... with a BBQ of course!

On the Friday we headed down to the stunning south coast, to the quaint village of Boswinger where we all sat round on benches, munched on some delicious grub and cracked open the G&Ts, the beers and chatted the night away...

Embracing Foggy Horizons

Down ere in Cornwall we got a bit caught out by this "Heatwave". We didn't actually get any of the 25 Degree sunshine predicted for the rest of the UK, which sucked big time! Instead, we were graced with a good 3 or 4 days worth of fog!

A Winter Escape. Part II. Return To The Slopes.

We woke the next morning, still tired but the excitement of what the day held in store for us, soon vanquished any feelings of tiredness. We washed and dressed in our thermals as quickly as possible and stumbled out of our  creaky bedroom doors over to the lounge/dining area where the chalet hosts had laid a table of tea, croissant, jam, basically everything you could wish for for your first taste of a French mountain breakfast.

A Very Happy Matty At The Breakfast Table

A Winter Escape. Part I. Journey To The Mountains.

This was the first time in... 12 years (YIKES!) that I had been skiing.

Since moving to Cornwall the idea of escaping the Cornish winter to umm, colder climes, just hasn't really appealed to me that much. The thought of basking in tropical sunshine, frolicking in warm water and surfing clean, reeling waves appealed to my senses so much more.


Surfing Messanges


After the initial storm swell began to die down a little, the surf got good, and I mean REAL GOOD (for me anyway)! As the waves got a little smaller, Matty and I were able to surf together more. And as a result, we had some of the most incredible surfs together we've ever had.

Clean French Mornings

Les Casernes

We woke in Les Casernes the next morning to the sound of the waves. The swell had well and truly kicked in and the waves were booming in. We cycled up to the beach to view it from the lookout point. There we saw 6ft bombs hoofing in, lining up the beach for miles. My legs felt a little jelly-like on seeing these thunderous beasts.


Waking Up In Biscarosse

The next morning we woke with the sunrise, albeit a bit of a cloudy one. I opened the van to the sight of the pine trees towering overhead.


The aire de camping was busy but there were only a few campers up and ready and taking their first sip of coffee in the dewy morning.

#3 ROAM

ROAM showcases the surfing, travelling life of Kelia Moniz; the Hawaiian longboarding dream. Watch Kelia cruising the globe on all waves imaginable starting with Tahiti where we watch the epic footage of that wipeout over at Teahupo'o. 

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